new route: COUCH POTATO (5.9)
3B's to LO. A short but Steep route between
Son of Sammy and Debbie does CPR on the short wall below the New Wave.
You need to sit down on the "couch" above the
anchors for the tick!
new route: WHITE SNAKE (5.12a)**
B's to LO. This is the next bolt line left of Black Mamba.
Stick Clip to start, then a tricky mantle is neccessary to pass a low roof.
Technique up a hard face past an eyebolt, angling up and right (moving
left is a project) to join the upper crux of Black Mamba (use a long runner
on the first mamba bolt). A 200 foot rope is needed to lower off the new
Black Mamba bolt anchor, or Rap w/ 2 ropes.
new route: TROPICANA (5.11C)**
8B's to LO. Start about 100 feet up and left of Black Mamba, below
a left facing corner/dike. Technical moves on limestone-like rock lead
up the corner/dike to an excellentflat belay ledge (same belay as Orange
Crush). 5.11c, 60' A second pitch of similar difficulty is in progress.
new route: THE CRUSHER (5.12a)***
12B's to LO. Start at the second single eyebolt anchor above the 4th
class wet slab. Step across the voidand move out right to the prominent
arete. From a good stance angle out left above the "hanging gardens" (rare
plant area) and then hand traverse up and right to great face moves and
a steepening finish. Classic!
new route: LIONS AND TIGERS AND BEARS (5.11c)***
B's to LO. Big Time Classic! this route follows the path of least resistance
through the wild overhangs on the cliff's uppper left end. Scramble up
the steep gulley on the left end of the cliffto reach an eyebolt anchor
below the ominous overhangs. Start up an easy slab, then power over a bulge
to technical moves which angle up and rightbelow a steeper headwall. When
the route steepens again,move up on jugs to gain a pumpy left-angling hand
traverse.