2. SEASICK (5.11c)
3B's to LO. Just around the corner from the main wall, follow the seams
up the short steep wall left of the arete. After clipping into the anchors,
the first acsentionist passed out due to heatstroke and hung for several
minutes before reviving.
3. ILL GOTTEN BOOTY (5.10a)
B's to LO. Follow the eyebolts just right of the arete. Great position,
but a bit reachy for the short climber.
4. KEEL HAULED (5.12a)
Start in the huge corner, then break left out the overhanging bomb-bay
chimney. "Easy" 5.12 for the expert hand jammer, but more like 12d if you're
a diehard sport climberand have to knee bar it. (Like Steve!)
5. PROJECT
Up the corner then break left on the face.
6. LAND HO (5.8+)**
7B's to LO. The best 5.8 at Rumney! Scramble out left to reach a ledge
below the huge right facing corner which makes up the center of the cliff.
A low crux past a left facing flake, then move left to finish in a huge
corner. Be sure to sit down at the very top and admire the view!
7. WALK THE PLANK (5.11b)**
B's to LO. Up the face to a right facing corner/ramp. Tricky and Technical.
8. NANTUCKET SLEIGH RIDE (5.12b/c)**
6B's to LO. Start in the gully on the right side of the main wall,
just left of two trees. A low roof and nice face are the warm-up for a
hard sequence gaining the undercling and flake system on the left. Finish
up the overhanging arete above.
9. CROW'S NEST (5.10c)*
4B's to LO. Start well up in the gully. The first route at the cliff
offers intricate climbing with a good variety of moves.
10. MUTINY (5.10b)
4B's to LO. This is the short route on the small butress right of the
main cliff. Although brief, it contains nice moves on good rock. Mantle
past the anchors to finish.
11. PEE WEE'S BIG ADVENTURE (5.5)*
N's to LO. An excellent beginners route up the crack covered slab to
anchor's. Good practice for placing nut's (bring plenty of medium to large
stoppers).