THE CROW'S NEST


Located directly above the Jolt Cliff, this sixty foot south facing wall offers a good selection of sport routes in a scenic setting. Although the cliff can be reached by scrambling up the scary wet gully right of Cold Feet, the best approach is to follow the path which leads left from the lefthand end of the Jimmy Cliff (page 53). Fairly Remote allow about 15 minutes from the Jimmy Cliff.. At the extreme left end of the crag there is a 2 eyebolt rappel anchor which will bring you to the gully along the Yellowknife Cliff.   Routes are listed left to right.


1. THE DINGY (5.11b)
2B's to LO. a short but surprisingly tricky arete problem with eyebolts

2. SEASICK (5.11c)
3B's to LO. Just around the corner from the main wall, follow the seams up the short steep wall left of the arete. After clipping into the anchors, the first acsentionist passed out due to heatstroke and hung for several minutes before reviving.

3. ILL GOTTEN BOOTY (5.10a)
B's to LO. Follow the eyebolts just right of the arete. Great position, but a bit reachy for the short climber.

4. KEEL HAULED (5.12a) 
Start in the huge corner, then break left out the overhanging bomb-bay chimney. "Easy" 5.12 for the expert hand jammer, but more like 12d if you're a diehard sport climberand have to knee bar it.  (Like Steve!)

5. PROJECT
Up the corner then break left on the face.

6. LAND HO (5.8+)**
7B's to LO. The best 5.8 at Rumney! Scramble out left to reach a ledge below the huge right facing corner which makes up the center of the cliff. A low crux past a left facing flake, then move left to finish in a huge corner. Be sure to sit down at the very top and admire the view!

7. WALK THE PLANK (5.11b)**
B's to LO. Up the face to a right facing corner/ramp. Tricky and Technical.

8. NANTUCKET SLEIGH RIDE (5.12b/c)**
6B's to LO. Start in the gully on the right side of the main wall, just left of two trees. A low roof and nice face are the warm-up for a hard sequence gaining the undercling and flake system on the left. Finish up the overhanging arete above.

9. CROW'S NEST (5.10c)*
4B's to LO. Start well up in the gully. The first route at the cliff offers intricate climbing with a good variety of moves.

10. MUTINY (5.10b)
4B's to LO. This is the short route on the small butress right of the main cliff. Although brief, it contains nice moves on good rock. Mantle past the anchors to finish.

11. PEE WEE'S BIG ADVENTURE (5.5)*
N's to LO. An excellent beginners route up the crack covered slab to anchor's. Good practice for placing nut's (bring plenty of medium to large stoppers). 



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